Why your ankle boots need a new sole and sock in October

The first cold, wet weeks of fall ask different things from a low heeled chunky boot than summer ever did. Here is what changes: the sole, the sock, the shaft and the surface underfoot.

The ground gets slicker

September pavement is dry and forgiving. October pavement is wet leaves, painted crosswalk lines and the dark film that gathers on asphalt after a night of drizzle. This is where a chunky low heel earns its place. A wide heel base, usually around an inch and a half or less, spreads your weight over more surface than a stiletto ever could. Look at the sole itself. A lugged rubber outsole with visible grooves grips wet ground. A smooth, flat sole of hard plastic does not, however good the boot looks.

The sock matters more than the boot

A short ankle boot has an opening that sits right at the bone, so the sock is the part of your outfit that meets the cold first. In summer you may have worn it with nothing but a liner. Now the question is fibre. Wool or a wool blend holds warmth even when slightly damp. Cotton does not, and a cotton sock that has taken on a little rain will feel colder than bare skin. Thickness changes fit too. A midweight sock can take up a quarter of a size, so if you are between sizes, try the boot with the sock you plan to wear in November, not the one you wore in August.

Lining, lacing and the zip

Many short boots close with a side zip, which is the fastest way into a shoe on a rushed morning. The tradeoff is that a zip is a seam, and seams are where water finds a way in. A light spray of water repellent along that seam before the wet season starts is a small chore that costs a few minutes. Suede and nubuck need it most. Smooth synthetic uppers shed rain on their own but can stiffen in real cold, so flex them by hand before you commit to a long walk.

A matter of taste

The chunkier the sole, the more the boot reads as casual and sturdy. Whether that suits your jeans, your wool skirt or your work trousers is taste, not measurement. A good test is the hem. Anything that skims the top of the boot looks deliberate, and anything that bunches over it looks like an accident.