Hazelholm

A small journal about things worth keeping

Wardrobe Basics

How to dress a smocked floral maxi for a long fall brunch

A smocked, long sleeved maxi dress nearly dresses itself, but five small decisions decide whether it works at a small cafe table in October. Here they are in order.

Start with the fabric, not the print

Smocking is rows of elastic thread sewn across cloth so it gathers in and then stretches back out. On a long sleeve maxi it usually sits through the bodice and sometimes the cuffs, which is why one dress can fit a fairly wide range of shapes. Check the label for the fibre. Rayon and viscose drape softly and wrinkle easily. Polyester holds its shape and dries fast. A cotton blend feels crisper. Which you prefer is a matter of taste, though a fabric with some weight hangs better on a breezy patio.

The steps

  1. Smooth it first. Hang the dress in the bathroom while the shower runs, or use a steamer on low. Smocked panels should never be ironed flat, because that flattens the gathers.
  2. Pull one colour from the print. A floral usually carries three or four shades, such as rust, cream, olive or plum. Choose one and repeat it in your shoes, tights or bag. Everything else stays plain.
  3. Add a layer that stops at the waist. A denim jacket or a short cardigan keeps the long skirt visible. A long coat over a long dress turns into one dark column and hides the print.
  4. Check the hem in your shoes. Stand in them before you leave. The hem should clear the floor by about an inch, so it does not catch on stairs or wet pavement. Flat ankle boots and loafers both work.
  5. Keep the bag small and the hair loose or up. The smocked bodice and sleeves already supply the detail, so a small shoulder bag is enough.

At the table

Cafe tables are small and a maxi skirt is wide. When you sit, gather the skirt and lay it across your knees instead of letting it pool by the chair legs. If the day is cool, a thin pair of tights under the dress adds warmth without changing the line, and a scarf in the colour you pulled from the print ties the outfit together without adding bulk.

Also on this site