Hazelholm

A small journal about things worth keeping

Wardrobe Basics

Why a wrinkle free shirt still wrinkles, and how to wear it

The label promises a shirt that stays flat all day, and the fibre mostly delivers, until a few habits undo it. Here is what goes wrong and the small changes that fix it.

What usually goes wrong

A shirt sold as wrinkle free is usually one of two things. It is a polyester blend, often with a little spandex, where the fibre itself springs back after folding. Or it is cotton with a resin finish that holds the cloth flat. Both work, but neither is magic. Polyester blends can take a heat set crease, so a shirt left under a warm lap or a seatbelt may keep a soft line at the elbow. Resin finished cotton slowly loses its hold after many hot washes.

The second mistake is size. A button down tends to gape between the buttons across the bust when it is chosen for length or sleeve alone. The measurement worth checking is the shoulder seam, which should sit at the edge of the shoulder. If it droops past it, the sleeves bunch at the elbow and the whole shirt looks creased even when it is not.

What to do instead

Take a polyester blend out of the dryer while it is still slightly damp, on low heat, and hang it at once. Button it to the second button on a real hanger, not a wire one. On a single wardrobe rail, a little gap between shirts does more than any iron. If there is no ironing board in the flat, hang the shirt on the bathroom door while the shower runs and let the steam relax the cloth.

Cuffs are where a long day shows first. A cold cup sweating on a café table leaves a ring of water, and a dragging cuff soaks it up. Unbutton the cuff and fold the sleeve back twice before sitting down. If a drop of milky coffee lands on the cloth, rinse it with cold water soon, since warm water can set the protein.

What is taste, not measurement

Tucked or loose, sleeves rolled or buttoned, top button open or closed: these are matters of taste, and a shirt this plain allows all of them. Two things can be checked, though. Hold the fabric up to a window, because a thin white weave can show what is under it. And press the collar between two fingers to see whether it has stays, the small slips that keep the points flat. A shirt that passes both will behave on a Monday and look just as good on a Saturday.

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