Hazelholm

A small journal about things worth keeping

Comfort Food

Why a late night meat and cheese board goes wrong, and the fix

Most small flat boards fail in the same three ways, and none of them involve the food itself. Here is what to change before the knock at the door.

What usually goes wrong

The first mistake is buying too many kinds. Six cheeses and four meats need a table, and a rented flat has a counter and a cutting board. The second is serving everything cold. Cheese straight from the fridge is stiff and quiet, and the flavor mostly stays in the rind. The third is cutting nothing in advance, so the first guest has to saw into a whole wedge while everyone watches.

There is also the cracker problem. A flavored, heavily seasoned cracker fights with cured meat, and a very thin one snaps under a slice of firm cheese.

What to do instead

Choose three cheeses that differ in texture: one soft and creamy, one firm like an aged cheddar or Gouda, one sharp or blue. Choose two meats, say a salami with fennel and something thin like prosciutto. A fair rule for a snack, not a dinner, is about two ounces of cheese and one to two ounces of meat per person.

Take the cheese out of the fridge 30 to 45 minutes before people arrive. Fats loosen at room temperature and the taste opens up. Keep the meat wrapped until the last few minutes so the edges do not dry and curl.

Cut a few slices of the firm cheese and fold a few slices of salami into quarters. That tells guests where to start.

Add one sharp thing and one sweet thing. Mustard or cornichons for sharp, honey or dried apricots for sweet. Which you prefer is a matter of taste, not measurement, and one of each is plenty.

For bread, plain is safest: a baguette torn by hand, or a plain water cracker.

When there is no time to shop

Some evenings the knock comes before the planning does. A boxed assortment of cured meat and cheese is built for that, because the pairing work is already done and nothing needs the stove. Even then, the same rules apply: let the cheese warm up, cut a few pieces, and put out a small bowl of something sharp.

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