Why your last blade felt worse than the one before it
The usual mistake is not the tool itself but how long it stays in the shower and how it gets stored. A few small habits explain almost every bad shave.
What usually goes wrong
Most irritation blamed on sensitive skin is actually a blade that has gone past its useful life. A cartridge dulls after five or six shaves for most people, sometimes sooner if the water at home is hard, and a dull edge tugs at the hair instead of cutting it clean. That tug is what leaves skin red and bumpy, not the razor’s design. The second common error is storage. A blade left standing in a wet shower caddy stays damp between uses, and damp metal against damp air is exactly how an edge corrodes and dulls early. On a small bathroom shelf with one lamp and no ventilation to speak of, that dampness lingers longer than in a bigger room with a window.
What to do instead
Rinse the blade under warm water after each pass, not just at the end, since built up shaving cream between the blades is what causes drag more than anything about the skin itself. Shake off the excess water and let the razor rest handle down, blade up, somewhere it can actually dry between uses rather than sitting in a puddle at the bottom of a cup. A small dish or a spot away from direct spray works better than the shower wall itself. Shaving at the end of a warm shower rather than the start also helps, since a few minutes of steam softens the hair and the skin has had time to warm rather than tighten.
The part that is taste, not measurement
How many strokes before you rinse, whether you go with the grain or against it, how much pressure feels comfortable, all of that varies by person and by the coarseness of the hair. There is no single correct answer there. What is not a matter of taste is the blade’s age and how dry it gets kept. Those two things account for nearly every complaint about a razor that used to feel fine and suddenly does not.